Shoe and process of making same



Jan. 15, 1935. c\. TwEEDlE 1,988,146

SHOE AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME Filed July 5l, 1933 L C /N vf/vroe:

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Patented Jan. l5, 1.935

UNITED STATES:

rA'rsN'r OFFICE Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, particularly ladies shoes of the type having comparatively narrow shank portions, and is especially concerned with the insole.

5 According to present day practice, it is customary to insert a metallic stiiening member in the shank or waist of the shoe to preserve the arch of the sole; and when such shank stiifener is used with shoes having such narrow shank portions, the width of the shank portion on either side of said stifener is too small to enable the upper to be properly secured to the insole.

The principal objects of the present invention are to devise means for attaching the upper to the shank portion of the insole and to simplify the manufacturing operation. The invention consists principally in the insole and in the method hereinafter described and claimed of attaching the upper to the shank portion of said insole.

In the accompanying drawing, which forms part of this specification and wherein like symbols refer to like parts wherever they occur,

Fig. 1 is a bottom plan view of an insole embodying my invention, v

Fig. 2 is a cross-section through the shank portion of said insole on the line 2 2 in Fig. 1,

Fig. 3 is a View similar to Fig. 1 showing the insole mounted on a last and the upper lasted to the insole,

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary section on the line 4-4 in Fig. 3, n i

Fig. 5 is a section on the line 5-5 in Fig. 3,

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 3, showing the shoe as it appears after the removal of the excess lasting allowance of the upper and the leaves or lips of the insole,

Fig. 7 is a section on the line '7-7 in Fig. 6,

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 7, showing a 40 construction of slightly modified form, y

Fig. 9 is a bottom plan View of the shoe with the outsole secured thereto,

Fig. l0 is a View of an insole of modified con struction; and

Fig. 11 is a section on the line 11-11 in Fig. 10.

In the accompanying drawing, my invention is shown in connection with an insole of the kind shown in my pending application Serial No. 679,061, filed July 5, 1933, which application claims said insole and also a process of applying the upper thereto. The present invention is also applicable to other forms of insoles.

In the construction illustrated in Fig. 1, the insole, which has a comparatively narrow shank portion, comprises a top layer A of leather or (Cl. 12-142)y other suitable material and a lower layer B of leather or other suitable material. Both of these layers are of full length except that the front tip of the lower layer B is snipped off, as at l. Between these two layers is a shank stiffener C, preferably of metal, which is tacked at its front and rear ends to one of said layers, preferably the top layer A. The heel and shank portions of the two layers are cemented together the full width thereof, except that the metallic shank stiffener is between them. The portions of the layers forward of the shank are also cemented together except for a broad marginal strip which is left uncemented.

The two layers of the insole are stitched together by lines of stitching 2 on opposite sides of and as close as practical to the metal shank stiffener C. These lines of stitching extend forwardly substantially parallel with the margins of the top layer A continuously to the snipped toe end of the lower layer B. The lower layer B is slit inwardly, as at 3, from both the side edges at points adjacent to the front end of the shank stiffener C. The free or loose marginal portions of the lower layer B, that is, the uncemented portions thereof outwardly from the stitching 2, are then bent back along the line of stitching so as to stand out as a leaf or flap 4 at an angle to the top layer A.

Extending along the longitudinal center line of the insole at the shank portion thereof vfrom the slit portions 3 of the lower layer B to the heel portion thereof is a narrow strip 5 of leatherA or other suitable material, one edge of which is stitched or otherwise permanently secured, as at 6, to said lower layer along a line located substantially midway between the side edges of the metal shank stifener C. This shank strip 5 stands out as a leaf or flap and is used in connecting the upper to the shank portion of the insole.

In the process of manufacturing the shoe, the insole is mounted on a last L, and the upper U is pulled over said last and its margins coated with cement and secured to the leaf or free marginal portion 4 of the lower layer B of the insole along the full length thereof on both sides of the shoe, as by staples or other suitable devices '7. Along the shank portion of the shoe the cement coated margins of the upper are pulled over the last and secured to the opposite sides of the upstanding flap or lip 5 along the full length thereof, as by staples or other suitable devices 8. After the upper is thus secured to the insole (suflicient time being allowed for drying of the cement, if cement is used) the excess material, both of the lasting allowance of the upper and the lips or flaps 4 and 5 are preferably cut away as closely as practicable to the body of the insole. As shown in Figs. 6 and 7, the material thus cut away carried with it the staples used to temporarily hold the edge portion of the lasting allowance of the upper to the leaves 4 and 5 of the insole. In this condition, the shoe is ready to receive the outsole S which may be applied thereto in any usual manner, as by stitching 9, cementing or otherwise. In some cases, as shown in Fig. 8, the lasting allowance of the upper and the shank lip 5 are trimmed along a line located between the edges thereof and the fasteners 8 therefor, thereby permitting these fasteners to remain in the shoe.

In the modified construction shown in Figs. lO and 11, the metallic shank stiffener C is secured to the bottom of the insole and the lip used in connecting the upper to the shank portion of the insole is secured to said stiifener. Said lip comprises a strip 5a of leather or other suitable material that is looped around the shank stiffener between the securing tacks therefor and has its opposite side margins cemented or otherwise secured together fiatwise to form an outstanding lip or flap.

The invention hereinbefore described provides a wider overlap between the margins of the upper and the shank portion of the insole, thereby providing a more secure connection between the upper and insole in the region of the shank portion of the shoe; it also locates the staples or fasteners used in the lasting operation at a maximum distance from the edges of the shank portion of the insole, thereby enabling the shank portion of the shoe to be made of minimum width; and it also provides a simple and economical process of attachinrr the upper to the insole.

What I claim is:

1. An insole having a shank stiifener secured thereto and a lip projecting from said insole intermediate between the sides of said shank stiffener.

2. An insole comprising upper and lower layers and a shank stiifener interposed between them, and a lip extending longitudinally of said shank stiffener with one edge secured to said lower layer intermediate between the sides of said shank stiifener.

3. An insole comprising a top layer and a lower layer and a shank stiffener interposed between them, said layers being secured together by lines of stitching extending close alongside of said stiifener, and a strip of material extending longitudinally of said stiilener with one edge secured to said lower layer intermediate between the sides of said stiffener.

4. An insole having a lip extending longitudinally of the bottom thereof intermediate between the sides of the shank portion thereof, said lip comprising a strip of material secured to said insole.

5. An insole comprising upper and lower layers connected together except that the marginal portion of the lower layer forward of the shank is left free, and an outstanding lip extending longitudinally of said lower layer intermediate between the sides thereof from the free marginal portion of the lower layer of the heel portion thereof.

6. An insole having a shank stiifener secured thereto and an upper securing strip secured to said shank stiffener intermediate the ends thereof.

7. An insole having a shank stiiener secured thereto at its ends and a strip of material extending between said insole and said shank stiffener with its free margins secured together to form a longitudinally extending lip.

8. The improvement in the process of making shoes which consists in securing a strip of material to the bottom of the insole to form a lip that projects therefrom intermediate between the sides of the shank portion thereof, and lastin the upper to said insole with the edge portions of the lasting allowance secured to the opposite sides of said lip.

9. The improvement in the process of making shoes which consists in securing a shank stiffener to the insole, providing the bottom of said insole with a lip that projects therefrom intermediate between the sides of said shank stiifener, and lasting the upper to said insole with the edge portions of the lasting allowance secured to the opposite sides of said lip.

l0. The improvement in the process of making shoes which consists in securing a metal shank stiifener to the insole, interposing a strip oi material between said shank stiffener and said insole, securing the edges of said strip together to form a lip along said stiffener, lasting the upper to the opposite sides of said lip and cutting away the free margin of said lip together with the portions of the lasting allowance secured thereto. CHARLES TWEEDIE. 

